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Sampler, Before Treatment
This sampler was faded and discoloured, with multiple holes, tears, and stains. Its edges and corners were severely creased where it had been folded to fit into a small tray for display.
Sampler, Before Treatment
Detail photo of a loss and staining at the edge of the sampler. Many losses correlated with the placement of nails in the sampler's wooden frame. Corrosion of the nails likely contributed to the damage and staining in these areas.
Sampler, Before Treatment
Each colour of silk embroidery thread, along with samples of the ground warps and wefts, was tested for colourfastness in multiple solutions. This was done in preparation for stain reduction and to assess whether aqueous treatments to reduce discolouration overall were possible.
Red and blue marks indicate areas where samples of thread were taken; circles marked in green indicate threads which could not be sampled . These threads were tested for colourfastness in situ with tiny damp blotter stacks (not pictured).
Red and blue marks indicate areas where samples of thread were taken; circles marked in green indicate threads which could not be sampled . These threads were tested for colourfastness in situ with tiny damp blotter stacks (not pictured).
Sampler, During Treatment - After Stain Reduction
Twelve different formulations of gels were tested for stain reduction. Slabs of 3 and 4% Gellan gum were prepared, then soaked overnight in solutions of trisodium citrate (0.05%, 0.3%, 0.5%) or citric acid (ph 6, 5.5, 5). These were then tested on stained areas. Citric acid at pH 6 was the most effective, and was used in 3% and 4% Gellan gum depending on the severity of the stain. The citric acid was later rinsed out when the sampler was wet-cleaned.
Sampler, During Treatment - After Washing
To reduce overall discolouration and to flatten creases, the sampler was cleaned in four washes.
The sampler was supported on a piece of Hollytex and areas of weakness were further stabilized using netting (loosely stitched around extensive tears). The sampler was washed in four successive baths, then moved to the suction table for active and controlled drying: we continued to apply and rinse out citric acid in more discoloured areas, removed accretions (ex. green felt and adhesive from the frame), and unfolded creases.
The sampler was supported on a piece of Hollytex and areas of weakness were further stabilized using netting (loosely stitched around extensive tears). The sampler was washed in four successive baths, then moved to the suction table for active and controlled drying: we continued to apply and rinse out citric acid in more discoloured areas, removed accretions (ex. green felt and adhesive from the frame), and unfolded creases.
During Treatment
After washing, it became clear that several areas of the sampler required extra stabilization. We decided to line the sampler, rather than stitching patches to the back, since the sampler was so small. Sheets of washed silk crepeline were toned using six different dye baths (pictured here) in order to find a sympathetic colour match for the sampler.
During Treatment
Once the best colour match was identified from the six dyed sheets of silk crepeline (pictured here), the sampler was stitched to the lining.
Sampler, During Treatment- Stitching
As the liner was stitched to the sampler, areas of weakness in the sampler were stabilized with conservation stitching.
During Treatment - Stitching Diagram
To reinforce vulnerable areas and hem the lining with minimal stitching, the edges of the lining were first tucked between the lining and the sampler and creased to form a temporary hem. Self-couching stitches were laid across losses through the creased hem and the sampler; each self-couching stitch was therefore used to (1) reinforce areas of vulnerability, (2) attach the sampler to the lining, and (3) hem the edges of the lining.
Sampler, During Treatment - Stitching Diagram
Red lines indicate stitches that hemmed the liner and attached it to the sampler. Blue lines mark self-couching stitches used to stabilize tears and holes. The teal stitches through the middle of the sampler also helped attach it to the liner.
Sampler, After Treatment
The lined sampler was stitched to a padded board.
Chappell Sampler
The goal of this treatment was to stabilize the sampler and improve its appearance: this involved reducing staining and overall discolouration, flattening creases, stabilizing areas of weakness (ex. holes and tears) and mounting to a padded board.
This treatment was one of two textile treatments completed with a lab partner. She spearheaded our other project (treatment of a historic Canadian flag) while I led this sampler treatment.
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